Burgundy wine

Wine Spectator’s review :

"Experiments with crop thinning that started in 1992 proved so successful that Domaine Armand Rousseau has applied the method to all of its 34.6 acres of vineyards since 1999. "We see a big difference; there is less dilution in the wines," says Rousseau. "The grapes are riper: We gain about 1 percent potential alcohol from the green harvest."

Eric’s grandfather, Armand, was a pioneer for estate bottling in Burgundy, back in the 1930s, and one of the first to sell wines in the United States after Prohibition. After succeeding him, Charles introduced stainless-steel fermentation tanks in Burgundy. Today, the domaine makes 5,800 cases a year and farms 20 acres of wines grands crus, from which it makes 2,500 cases.

Most wines see little new oak. The Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers offers black fruit and a surprising silkiness of tannins. Only 5 percent new oak is used to age the medium-bodied, elegant Clos de la Roche, which was made from 45-year-old vines and shows raspberry and spicy notes.

 The Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques is an authentic-tasting premier cru without artifices and has a silky midpalate. 

New oak accounts for only 10 percent of Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes an ethereal Pinot Noir with loads of fresh red berry character, spice and wonderful length. The medium-bodied Mazis-Chambertin is a marvel of finesse, both powerful and delicate.

One hundred percent new oak is used to age the following three Burgundies wines: Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is rich and thick, with lots of black fruit and spicy oak. Chambertin is complex, with black cherries and mineral, showing soft and supple tannins -- the sort of harmony you expect from a top grand cru. And the amazing Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos St.-Jacques, a premier cru wine, rivals the grands crus that I tasted from barrel; it is loaded with spice and rich fruit, with a long finish.