The Chave family are based in a small village not far from Cornas, on the right bank of the Rhone. The heart of the operation, however, is across the river, on the hill of Hermitage. Here Chave owns vines in nine of the eighteen vineyards that cover the hill, the most significant of which is a 2 ha plot in Les Bessards, the large vineyard on the granite slopes at the western end.

Jean Louis Chave, and his father from whom he is gradually taking control, believes that the rich variety of terroirs to be found on the hill are vital in blending a wine which has all of the features they desire, including finesse, structure and complexity. Those plots which do not meet the Chave requirements simply aren't used.

The grapes are largely destemmed, depending on the vintage, before the produce of each vineyard is vinified in separate aliquots. This reflects Chave's belief in the importance of terroir, and that each vineyard has a separate role to play in the blend. As mentioned, Les Roucoles provides tannin, whereas Les Bessards provides colour and intensity, Le Méal provides aromatic interest, L'Hermite a supple edge and Peléat more colour, tannin and characterful flavour.

There are a couple of other wines in the portfolio which deserve a mention. There is Cuvée Cathelin, named after the artist Bernard Cathelin, a friend of the Chave family who designed the label for this wine which was first released in 1990. This wine has a limited production, just over 100 cases in fact, and is essentially a super micro-cuvée. Chave is quick to explain, however, that it is Hermitage wine in a different style, rather than a wine that should detract from the main cuvée. A vin de paille has also been the subject of critical acclaim. Whatever the style, however, Jean Louis Chave is clearly keeping quality paramount. This remains a source of superb Hermitage, both red and white.