Domaine Dagueneau Didier Pouilly Fumé Buisson Renard 2022

"It’s clear that Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau is especially enamored of the flinty but relatively clay-rich parcel at the lower end of Saint Andelain that is responsible for his 2011 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Buisson Renard, but I have to say that while he associates this site with an especially rich, generous sort of wine, I find that the results characteristically lack the finesse, purity of fruit, or interactive sense of minerality that accrues to its stable mates, and in the case of this palpably dense 2011, the wine comes off as almost a bit chunky. An emphasis on the bitter side of green herbs, parsnip, citrus oils, and nuts informs this gripping performance. I am not convinced that it will need longer in bottle – or more working of the lees – than other Dagueneau wines of its vintage, but I’m willing to entertain that possibility. My intuition though is that this will be best drunk within 2-3 years of bottling." (2012)